Island Peak Climbing
Mountain Hawk Trek
Peak Climbing RegionStrenuous

Island PeakClimbing with EBC

Summit Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6,189m), Nepal's most climbed trekking peak, and reach Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar on one 19-day trip. Acclimatize on the EBC trail first, then climb the headwall on fixed ropes with your climbing Sherpa. From USD 2,175.

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Trip Highlights

The moments that matter most

The summit ridge is the moment the whole trip is built around: a narrow snow arete with a fixed line running its 300 meters, the south face of Lhotse standing three vertical kilometers above you across the valley, and Ama Dablam behind your shoulder. At 6,189m you are higher than everything in sight except the 8,000ers.

The headwall by headlamp: 100 vertical meters of 40 to 50 degree snow and ice, jumar sliding up the fixed rope, crampons biting, breath loud in the dark. It takes about two hours, and every meter of it feels like real mountaineering because it is.

Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar first, summit second. Standing at 5,364m among the expedition tents, then watching sunrise hit the Everest south face from Kala Patthar, would be the headline of any other trip. Here they are the warm-up, and your red blood cells collect the fee.

The turn into the Chukhung valley is where the crowds vanish. One day off the main EBC highway and it is yaks, moraine, the Imja Glacier grinding somewhere under its rubble, and a tent city of climbers at Pareshaya Gyab checking knots for the morning.

The skills afternoon at base camp: your climbing Sherpa rigs a practice line on the moraine and drills crampon steps, jumar ascent, and figure-8 abseils until they are boring. Boring is the goal. On the headwall at 4 AM, boring is what safe looks like.

Tea in Chukhung the evening after the summit, boots off, the peak you stood on framed in the teahouse window. The 19-day shape means you descend to a bed, a hot meal, and a slow walk out through Namche with the whole Khumbu replaying behind you.

Trip Overview

A closer look

What is Island Peak? It is a 6,189m (20,305 ft) summit in Nepal's Everest region, and the most climbed trekking peak in the country, with over 2,000 climbers a year. The British Cho Oyu expedition named it in 1952 because, from Dingboche, the peak rises like an island from a sea of glacial ice; the Imja Tse meaning of its local name ties it to the Imja valley it stands in. Tenzing Norgay's team first summited it in 1953 as training for Everest, and it has been the standard first Himalayan summit ever since. On the French Alpine scale the climb grades F to PD: harder than any trek in Nepal, easier than a true expedition peak.

Island Peak Nepal sits inside Sagarmatha National Park, up the Chukhung valley from Dingboche, one valley east of the Everest Base Camp Trek corridor. That geography is the whole logic of this 19-day itinerary: the route walks the classic EBC trail through Namche, Tengboche, and Dingboche, touches Everest Base Camp (5,364m) and the Kala Patthar sunrise (5,545m), and only then swings into the Chukhung valley for the climb. By the time you reach Island Peak Base Camp you have already slept above 4,900m twice, and that is precisely what a 6,189m summit morning wants from you.

This is the Island Peak climbing itinerary with EBC built in, and the sequencing is deliberate. Acclimatization is the single biggest reason Island Peak attempts succeed or fail, and the Island Peak 19 day itinerary treats the entire EBC trail as a ramp: sleep at 3,440m in Namche, 3,860m at Tengboche, 4,410m at Dingboche, 4,920m at Lobuche, then two days that touch 5,364m and 5,545m. When you finally rope up on the Imja Glacier, your body has spent eleven days learning the altitude that shorter schedules ask it to improvise.

If you want the summit without the base camp loop, the Island Peak itinerary without EBC is our 16-day Island Peak Expedition (USD 1,975), which approaches directly through Chukhung and carries two climbing days instead of the EBC extension. The Island Peak 16 day itinerary suits climbers on tighter leave who have recent altitude experience. Strong trekkers sometimes ask about pairing an Island Peak three passes trek: crossing Kongma La from the Everest Three Passes Trek drops almost into Chukhung, and we build that combination on request. Same mountain, three ways to reach it.

The climb itself: from Chukhung (4,730m) you walk to Island Peak Base Camp at 5,087m, a tent site the Sherpas call Pareshaya Gyab, and the next day to High Camp around 5,600m. Summit morning starts between midnight and 2 AM. The route crosses the Imja Glacier by headlamp, roped as a team through crevasse zones, then meets the crux: a headwall of roughly 100 vertical meters at 40 to 50 degrees, climbed on fixed ropes with a jumar. Above it, a narrow, corniced summit ridge runs about 300 meters on a fixed line to the top, with the south face of Lhotse filling the view across the valley and Ama Dablam, Makalu, and Baruntse around the horizon. Round trip, expect 10 to 12 hours back to a teahouse bed in Chukhung.

What does it cost? Our Island Peak climbing cost is USD 2,175 for the full 19 days, and the permit arithmetic behind any Island Peak package price runs: NMA climbing permit at USD 350 in spring and USD 175 in autumn, winter, and summer (the September 2025 Group B rates, which much of the internet still quotes wrong, as we broke down for Mera Peak's cost), Sagarmatha National Park entry around USD 30, and the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality fee around USD 20, all three included in our price along with the refundable USD 500 per group garbage deposit we post with the NMA. There is no TIMS requirement in the Khumbu; the municipality fee replaced it, whatever older packing lists say. Full details live on our Nepal trekking permits guide.

Honesty about the odds: the Island Peak success rate runs approximately 80 percent for guided groups on sensible itineraries, and the misses are almost always altitude or weather, not rope work. Your climbing Sherpa makes the go or no-go call on summit morning and holds a hard turnaround time; the summit is optional, coming home is not. How dangerous is Island Peak? The objective hazards are real but managed: hidden crevasses on the glacier (roped travel is non-negotiable), cold on the pre-dawn start, and altitude above 6,000m, which our altitude sickness guide covers in depth. We put the full risk picture in our Island Peak complete guide, in plain language.

Can a beginner climb Island Peak? Yes, with qualifications: you do not need mountaineering experience, because your climbing Sherpa teaches crampon technique and jumar work at base camp, but you do need the fitness for a 10 to 12 hour summit day and, ideally, one previous high trek. If you want a higher summit with less rope work, Mera Peak reaches 6,476m as a glacier walk; if you want a second technical step after Imja Tse, Lobuche East (6,119m) is the natural progression. In the island peak vs mera peak decision, the split is simple: Mera for altitude, Island for climbing.

When to go: April to May and October to November. Spring brings softer headwall ice and historically the strongest weather windows; autumn is colder, drier, and clearer. As for choosing among Island Peak climbing packages Nepal offers by the hundred, judge the best Island Peak climbing company on four checkable things: the climbing Sherpa ratio, real 2025 permit rates quoted up front, tents and group gear actually carried to 5,600m, and a schedule long enough to acclimatize on. The brochure price tells you none of that. Our standard is what our founder has run Khumbu climbs on for years, and our Island Peak climbing reviews are from trekkers who stood on the ridge. To book Island Peak climbing for 2026, the calendar below is live.

Route & Elevation

The trail, mapped

Elevation ProfileDay-by-day altitude
TrailPeak
6,189m4,978m3,767m2,556m1,345mKathmanduKathmanduPhakdingNamcheNamcheTengbochePhericheLobucheEBCKala PattharChukhungIsland Peak Base CampIsland Peak High CampIsland Peak SummitNamcheLuklaKathmanduKathmanduKathmandu6,189m
Itinerary

Day by day, on the trail

19 days from Kathmandu arrival to departure. Hover any day for full details.

Day01

Arrival in Kathmandu

Kathmandu

Arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport (1,345m), meet our team, and transfer to your hotel by private vehicle. Evening briefing on the days ahead. Overnight at hotel.

1,345mHotel
Day02

Pre-trip Meeting & Kathmandu Sightseeing

Kathmandu

Morning pre-trip meeting: route briefing, insurance and paperwork for the NMA climbing permit, and a full gear check against the equipment list. Afternoon guided sightseeing in the Kathmandu Valley, with time in Thamel to rent double boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, and jumar if you are not bringing your own. Overnight at hotel.

1,345mHotel
Day03

Fly to Lukla & Trek to Phakding

Phakding

Fly to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla (2,860m) from Kathmandu or Ramechhap depending on season, meet the porter team, and walk a gentle first stage down the Dudh Koshi valley to Phakding (2,610m), about 3 hours. Overnight at guesthouse.

2,610m3h trekGuesthouse1,265m
Day04

Trek to Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar

Cross and re-cross the Dudh Koshi on suspension bridges, enter Sagarmatha National Park at the Monjo gate where permits are checked, and climb the long hill to Namche Bazaar (3,440m), the Sherpa capital, 5 to 6 hours. First view of Everest from the trail if the sky is clear. Overnight at guesthouse.

3,440m6h trekGuesthouse830m
Day05

Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar

Acclimatization day, which means climb high and sleep low, not rest. Morning hike toward the Everest View Hotel (3,880m) for the Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam panorama, then back to Namche for the bakeries, gear shops, and the Sherpa Culture Museum. Overnight at guesthouse.

3,440mGuesthouse
Day06

Trek to Tengboche

Tengboche

Contour high above the Dudh Koshi, drop to the river at Phunki Tenga, and climb through rhododendron forest to Tengboche (3,860m) and its famous monastery, about 5 hours. Ama Dablam dominates the evening sky. Attend the monks' afternoon prayer ceremony if timing allows. Overnight at guesthouse.

3,860m5h trekGuesthouse420m
Day07

Trek to Pheriche

Pheriche

Descend through Deboche, cross the Imja Khola, and climb past Pangboche, whose gompa is the oldest in the Khumbu, to the windswept valley floor at Pheriche (4,200m), about 5 hours. The Himalayan Rescue Association aid post here runs daily altitude talks in season, worth an hour of anyone's time. Overnight at guesthouse.

4,200m5h trekGuesthouse340m
Day08

Trek to Lobuche

Lobuche

Climb steadily to Dughla, then up the steep moraine of the Khumbu Glacier past the memorial chortens at Thok La, a sobering line of cairns for climbers lost on Everest. Continue to Lobuche (4,920m), 4 to 5 hours. The air is noticeably thinner; the pace stays deliberately slow. Overnight at guesthouse.

4,920m5h trekGuesthouse720m
Day09

Everest Base Camp & Gorak Shep

Gorak Shep

Follow the glacier's edge to Gorak Shep (5,164m), drop bags, and continue along the rubble-covered ice to Everest Base Camp (5,364m), about 8 hours round trip for the day. In spring the tent city of Everest expeditions sprawls across the glacier; in autumn the site is stark and quiet. Return to Gorak Shep for the night. Overnight at guesthouse.

5,164m8h trekGuesthouse244m
Day10

Kala Patthar & Trek to Dingboche

Dingboche

Pre-dawn climb of Kala Patthar (5,545m) for the sunrise on Everest's south face, the single best Everest viewpoint on this trip and a genuine altitude test passed. Descend the valley to Dingboche (4,410m), 6 to 7 hours in total. Two nights above 5,100m are now banked for the climb ahead. Overnight at guesthouse.

4,410m7h trekGuesthouse754m
Day11

Trek to Chukhung

Chukhung

A short stage east into the Chukhung valley (4,730m), about 3 hours, leaving the EBC crowds behind. The afternoon is for rest, hydration, and a first long look at Island Peak standing in its ring of ice. Final gear rental top-ups are possible here at mountain prices. Overnight at guesthouse.

4,730m3h trekGuesthouse320m
Day12

Trek to Island Peak Base Camp & Skills Session

Island Peak BC

Walk the moraine valley beneath the Lhotse wall to Island Peak Base Camp at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), 3 to 4 hours. In the afternoon your climbing Sherpa rigs a practice line for the skills session: crampon technique, jumar ascent on the fixed rope, figure-8 descent, and rope-team travel for the glacier. Overnight at tented camp.

5,087m4h trekTented Camp357m
Day13

Move to High Camp

Island Peak HC

A short, steep carry to High Camp around 5,600m, about 3 hours, which positions the team for a shorter summit morning. Early dinner and an attempt at sleep with the alarm set for midnight. Water bottles come into the sleeping bag or they freeze. Overnight at tented camp.

5,600m3h trekTented Camp513m
Day14

Summit Island Peak (6,189m) & Descend to Chukhung

Chukhung

Summit day. Away between midnight and 2 AM by headlamp, scrambling rock ridges to the glacier, then roped travel through the crevasse zones of the Imja Glacier. At the headwall, fixed ropes protect roughly 100 vertical meters of 40 to 50 degree snow and ice; above it, the corniced summit ridge runs about 300 meters on a fixed line to the top of Island Peak (6,189m), with Lhotse's south face filling the northern sky. Descend carefully by the same line all the way to Chukhung (4,730m), 10 to 12 hours in total. Overnight at guesthouse.

4,730m11h trekGuesthouse870m
Day15

Trek to Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar

Begin the walk out: down the Chukhung valley, past Dingboche and Pangboche, and along the high trail to Namche Bazaar (3,440m), about 7 hours. Every hour of descent puts oxygen back in the air. Overnight at guesthouse.

3,440m7h trekGuesthouse1,290m
Day16

Trek to Lukla

Lukla

The final trekking stage retraces the Dudh Koshi valley through Monjo and Phakding to Lukla (2,860m), 6 to 7 hours. Evening is for the traditional thank-you dinner with the guide, climbing Sherpa, and porter team. Overnight at guesthouse.

2,860m7h trekGuesthouse580m
Day17

Fly to Kathmandu

Kathmandu

Morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu or Ramechhap, and transfer to your hotel. The afternoon is yours: sleep, shop, or eat everything Thamel offers. Overnight at hotel.

1,345mHotel1,515m
Day18

Buffer Day in Kathmandu

Kathmandu

A planned buffer day. Lukla flights are weather-dependent in both directions, and this day absorbs a delay without endangering your international connection; if the schedule ran clean, it becomes a free day for Bhaktapur, Patan, or nothing at all. Overnight at hotel.

1,345mHotel
Day19

Departure

Kathmandu

Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport by private vehicle for your departure flight, carrying one summit, one base camp, and a camera you will be explaining for months.

1,345mTransfer
Good to Know

Before you commit

Trek Cost

TierPrice
Per Person
USD 2,175
Package Details

What's in, what's out

What's Included

13

Airport to hotel to airport pickup and drop-off by private vehicle.

Four nights standard twin-sharing hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast (days 1, 2, 17, and 18).

Guided city tour in Kathmandu by private vehicle.

Kathmandu (or Ramechhap) to Lukla and Lukla to Kathmandu flights, including airport departure taxes.

Teahouse accommodation on trekking nights and full tented camps at Island Peak Base Camp and High Camp.

Three meals a day throughout the trek and climb: breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

A government-licensed English-speaking trekking guide plus a qualified climbing Sherpa for the summit push, with their food, accommodation, salary, insurance, and equipment covered.

The required number of porters for group and personal duffel loads (1 porter for every 2 trekkers).

NMA Island Peak climbing permit, Sagarmatha National Park entry, and Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality fee.

Group climbing equipment: ropes, ice screws, snow bars, and fixed line for the headwall and summit ridge.

Down jacket, sleeping bag, and duffel bag on loan, returned after the trip.

First aid kit carried by the guide, with oximeter checks at altitude.

All applicable government taxes, tourist service charge, and VAT.

Not Included

9

Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.

Mountaineering-grade travel insurance with helicopter evacuation and coverage above 6,000m (compulsory, checked before departure).

International airfare and Nepal entry visa fee.

Personal climbing gear: double mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, and jumar, all rentable in Kathmandu's Thamel district or, at a premium, in Chukhung.

Wifi, hot showers, and device charging in teahouses, which get pricier and scarcer above Namche.

Bottled or boiled drinking water, soft drinks, and alcohol.

Tips for the guide, climbing Sherpa, and porters, customary but never fixed.

Personal expenses and gear beyond the loaned down jacket, sleeping bag, and duffel.

Any other expenses not mentioned in the Price Includes section.

Add-on

Extra Nights in Kathmandu

Single Room$60per night · breakfast included
Twin Sharing$35per person / night · breakfast included

Dear guest, should you require additional accommodation in Kathmandu, we are pleased to offer the following rates: US$60 per person per night for a single room and US$35 per person per night for a double (twin sharing) room, both inclusive of breakfast.

The Reward

Why you'll love it

Three reasons this trek stays with you long after the plane home.

Scenery

Two bucket-list objectives in one trip: Everest Base Camp, the Kala Patthar sunrise, and a 6,189m summit. The EBC trail does your acclimatization for you, which is exactly why this route outperforms shorter attempts.

Thrill

The summit ridge is the real thing: fixed ropes, crampons, and the south face of Lhotse filling the sky across the valley. Island Peak is where trekkers find out they can be climbers.

Connection

Over 2,000 climbers a year make Imja Tse the busiest trekking peak in Nepal, and most of them meet their first crampon, jumar, and glacier rope-up here. It is the standard first Himalayan summit for a reason.

Honest Check

Is this trek for you?

A few things worth knowing before you commit. No sugar-coating, no surprises on day one.

Expectations

Before you book

7

You can walk 5 to 7 hours a day for two weeks and absorb one 10 to 12 hour summit day that starts between midnight and 2 AM. That is the honest fitness bar, and it is above any teahouse trek.

You want a first 6,000m summit with genuine climbing on it. Island Peak's headwall and summit ridge involve fixed ropes, front-pointing, and exposure. If you want altitude without rope work, Mera Peak is the better fit.

You have trekked to 4,000 or 5,000 meters before, on EBC, the Annapurna Circuit, or similar. Island Peak as a first-ever Himalayan trip is possible, but the glacier is a hard place to discover how your body handles altitude.

You accept two nights in tents at 5,087m and 5,600m, where the water bottle freezes beside you and summit morning starts by headlamp in minus 15 to minus 20 air.

You hold, or will buy, mountaineering-grade travel insurance. Standard trekking policies stop at 6,000m and Island Peak sits above that line, so an ordinary policy fails exactly where you need it.

You have 19 days. The EBC loop before the climb is not sightseeing padding, it is the acclimatization engine that makes the summit statistically likely. Faster schedules exist, and they fail more.

Budget is USD 2,175 plus personal technical gear rental, drinks, and tips. Every excluded cost is listed below in plain figures.

Gear Up

What to pack

The full kit that's built from years on the trail. Skip it at your own risk, bring it and you'll never think about it again.

Equipment

Packing checklist

33 items

Climbing boots

Harness

Crampons

Ice axe

Tapes and slings

Carabiners

Ice screws

Snow bars

Rock pegs

Helmet

Climbing rucksack

Day bag

Kit bag

Ascenders

Descenders

Base layer t shirts

Long sleeved cotton and woollen shirts

Long wool underwear

Cotton hiking shorts

Warm climbing trousers

Lightweight fleece

Fleece or wool mid layer

Down high altitude sleeping bag

Sleeping pad or thermarest

Light athletic socks and wool climbing socks

Lightweight thermal and insulated ski gloves

Head torch with spare batteries

Waterproof climbing jacket

Down jacket and trousers

Climbing sunglasses

Sun cream

Sun hat

Gaiters

Tight fitting, figure-hugging clothing, such as those made with Lycra can often be offensive to locals, especially on women. If you find these items comfortable as a base layer then please pack something to wear over the top of them.

Good to Know

Frequently asked questions

Still have questions? Tap through the answers below or reach out directly. We reply within the hour.

FAQs

The most asked

55
Trail Stories

What trekkers say

Reviews from trekkers who have walked this exact route.

5.0/ 5
1 verified review
Lindsay McDonald
AustraliaMay 2018

Gokyo Ri, Cho La pass and Island Peak

Prem is a weather god, protector of stomachs, and guide extraordinaire. I cannot speak highly enough of Prem and Mountain Hawk Trekking. He had everything organised and quickly adapted plans when things needed to change. He managed our acclimatisation well, taking us up slowly and monitoring our O2 each day. In years to come I will bring my children to see the beauty of Nepal and I will definitely go with Prem.

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