Trail conditions in July
July is a month of climbing through water. The first week gains 805m from Sekathum at 1,575m to Amjilosa at 2,380m, then 345m to Gyabla at 2,725m and 690m to Ghunsa at 3,415m, and the tour notes’ description of a very wet lower trail applies to every step. Expect mud on forest paths, swollen crossings and slopes that take longer to descend than to climb.
On the high ground, July is a patient month. Khambachen at 4,145m and Lhonak at 4,792m are warm enough to sleep without fear, but the Pangpema day depends on a morning clear enough to see the way. A walk in the monsoon is a walk in cloud with occasional views, and a guide’s weather judgement is worth more than any line of the itinerary.
The decisions about the passes get made at Ghunsa. Day 12 brings you back down 1,377m to the warmest big stop on the route, and from there the choice to go on to Sele Le Base Camp on day 13 can wait for a break in the weather. Rain or mist over the three passes of day 14 makes for a slow, slippery and easily misjudged crossing. Oktang at 4,740m the day after is worth doing only on a morning your guide approves.




