Trail conditions in December
The approach is cold, clear and quiet, and the early legs are the most comfortable part of a December trek. The trail climbs from Amjilosa through Gyabla to Ghunsa in dry air and low light, and the rest day at Ghunsa on day 8 is as useful for checking that every layer works as it is for acclimatisation.
The cold stack arrives with Khambachen at 4,145m and Lhonak at 4,792m. Three nights in a row above 4,000m, with the Pangpema day between the last two, is the hardest sustained stretch of a December trek. The day is seven hours with the return, and it depends on a calm morning and warm gloves.
The three passes are the question of the month. Day 13 to Sele Le Base Camp sets up the day 14 crossing, and December is when snow becomes a real factor. Tseram at 3,870m and Oktang at 4,740m follow, and the drop through Tortong, Yamphudin and Khebang on the exit is the moment the cold lifts.




