Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek in November

Dry and firm end to end, with the forest bare and open. Sightlines through the trees between Ghorepani and Tadhapani are better than at any point in spring, which is the quiet compensation for having no flowers.

The landscape colour changes noticeably through November. The rice terraces below Ghandruk that were vivid green in September are cut and gold, and the whole descent on the final walking day looks like a different trek from the one a monsoon walker did over the same ground.

The Ulleri staircase is at its easiest of the year in November air. Cool, dry, no humidity. People who have done this trek in both May and November describe the same steps in completely different terms.

The first ten days carry October volume and the trail empties steadily after that. By the last week of November you can arrive at Ghorepani without a booking and get a room, which is not true in any other prime month.

Everything stays open and fully staffed. Dining rooms get genuinely comfortable as the evenings sharpen and the stoves are lit earlier than in October.

Flights and roads are at their most reliable, and demand eases through the month. The first half still wants booking ahead; the second half is straightforward at short notice.