Baruntse Peak lies in the heart of the Khumbu massif to the west of Makalu. This captivating ridge is surrounded by some of the most famous peaks of the world: Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and the list continues. Baruntse is the most accessible 7000 meter peak in the region besides having a normal route of ascent which can be guided. The first to make its summit were the already famous Hillary and Jim McFarlane.
The potential for climbing "east of Everest" was first recognized by members of Shipton's 1951 Everest Reconnaissance expedition, which made a journey of exploration into the region. Three years later, in 1954, members of that team, including Edmund Hillary and George Lowe, returned to exploit the climbing potential to the full. Although their prime aim was to explore Makalu, in a concerted effort of peak bagging around the upper Barun Glacier, this team made no fewer than 20 first ascents, of which Baruntse was the most significant. The first ascent of Baruntse being made on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow. They climbed the mountain by the South-East Ridge, which will be the line of our ascent. Since then, the route has been climbed several times, with a high rate of success. In High Magazine's 'Mountain Info', Baruntse was recently described as rapidly becoming "the most coveted 7,000m peak in Nepal".
The South-East Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters to be climbed on the way to the top. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced, but there is little evidence of avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain. The most successful ascents have been made in the spring when snow conditions have been good and the mountain has been found to be objectively safe at this time. The steeper sections of the climb are safeguarded by fixed rope, as are the obvious cornices that need to be traversed between the camps on the mountain.
The ascent route is through the southern ridge overhanging the famous West pass, this is in act the traditional route opened by Hillary and Shipton in 1952. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hongu valley, one of the most fertile region in Nepal, passing northward through a beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes through delightful Sherpa country and provides for excellent acclimatization. The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5400m and sits near the pristine lakes below Amphu Labtsa pass. The route then follows a long ridge leading to the summit. An ascent on Baruntse is an adventure for climbers wishing to meet a true Nepalese 7000 meter.
 

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